Heading
northeasterly from where we are staying, Highway 178 follows the dry Kern
River's course from alongside of us at our RV park back 165 miles toward its
source in the Sierra Nevada Mountains-the only river in this mountain range
that follows a southerly course from its source. Snowmelt near Mount Whitney
creates this river that flows along an earthquake fault through the Kern Canyon.
Beyond
Bakersfield an arid area exists along Highway 178 interrupted by a valley that
stands out as starkly green between the surrounding mountains. The valley is
planted with olive and orange trees using a portion of the water diverted from
the river. Here too are new developments of residential areas including one for
"active adults" by the builder K. Hovnanian Homes called "Four
Seasons" for ages 55 and up.
We have learned
that the river's water is diverted entirely for agriculture for most of the
year and hence that is why there is little left to flow sporadically behind our
park. In fact the water has been diverted in this way since the late 19th
century and one can see huge pipes in the canyon used for that purpose. The
owner shared with us that while they were building the RV park for two
years the river did flow behind us until the drought took a firm hold. Now it
flows only periodically (and sometimes unexpectedly) when it is not being
diverted to the agricultural fields. Once guests from the RV park who had
crossed the dry river bed to the park on the other side for a picnic, were
caught in the park when the river unexpectedly began flowing. Luckily they had
a couple of cars that had transported coolers to the park available to bring
people back to this side of the river!
As we climbed
into the scenic Kern Canyon that defines the river's course, there is finally
water visible in the river and we see signs about river rafting and kayaking.
We have entered the Sequoia National Park but the sequoias are miles ahead of
us. We are heading to Lake Isabella. Here we will see three parks and then
return a week later to see four more. The dam at Lake Isabella has been plagued
by repair issues, leading to a lowering of the lake it created and dry land now
dominates what used to be lakefront views.
Sunday we will go back and see what the other side of the lake looks like back up through the rugged canyon and along the winding road that Highway 178 becomes in Kern Canyon. It is not a place we will ever take "Puff -the Magic Green RV" and to that both Jim and I can attest!
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