Multnomah Falls

Today we drove a half hour east of Portland on I-84 along the Columbia River to Multnomah Falls.  This breathtaking falls maintains a flow all year from snowmelt, rain and springs feeding its water source.  Though the volume decreases in the summer, it is still awe inspiring as we watch water plummet 620 feet down the face of the falls. 

About 15,000 years ago the geography of this place with multiple waterfalls along this section of the Columbia River Gorge, was carved out in just 40 hours when an ice dam created by a glacier holding back a huge glacial lake near Missoula, Montana.  The lake comprised 3,000 square miles and was 2,000 feet deep!  When its ice dam broke, it is estimated that 9 ½ cubic miles of water per hour flowed toward the Pacific Ocean following along the route of the ancestral Columbia River carving out the Columbia River Gorge and the steep banks that gave rise to this falls and several others in close proximity.  The water carried away soil and rock 1,000 feet deep lowering the river to its present level.

Upstream, the water created another 3,500 square mile lake near the Wallula Gap where the Snake River now meets the Columbia River.  One can only imagine the sound and fury watching this from a safe, nearby mountaintop would have provided for the indigenous peoples and animals.  Certainly they must have thought their world was ending and it makes the explosion of Mt. St. Helen in our lifetime seem pale by comparison.

This event gave birth to an area that for 10,000 years supported one of the greatest concentrations of Native Americans in North America.  Salmon fishing was abundant here with ideal conditions caused by prevailing winds coming up the gorge for drying and smoking the fish.  Native Americans from all over the west came to trade with the tribes living and fishing along the Columbia River.  Discovered by European seafaring Captain Robert Gray in 1792 and later described by Lewis & Clark in 1805, the lifestyle, art and traditions of the native people were preserved before 11,500 pioneers had followed behind them along the Oregon Trail by 1849.

Petroglyphs and pictographs can still be seen to this day and for a peek at what they look like check out some photographs by clicking here.  Though we did not see this artwork, spending more time along the Columbia River Gorge to further see all of this history is now on my bucket list for the next trip through.  I wish also I could take every child in America along with us to see, feel and learn about the history of our country inspiring in them the pride such knowledge imparts.

Pausing in Portland OR

Portland is a nice place to hesitate in our travels.  Yes, it is a big city.  There is evidence of lots of new buildings and high-rise residences along the river with rapid transit and even a gondola crossing I-5 to the waterfront from the ridge above the highway.  The developing waterfront is attractive and peaks our curiosity. 

 We are “camping” on an island adjacent to the Columbia River.  From here we can hear the sound of boats, trains, planes and the Interstate (I-5) but at the same time we are in a place that is park-like in this RV space we occupy surrounded by trees, grass and friendly neighbors.  Snoopy has the pleasure of watching a black cat, a gray squirrel and a variety of birds including what a humming bird feeder attracts.  The weather was cool enough last night to sleep with the windows open and this morning we are still enjoying the light breeze and fresh air as the city wakes.

Last night we sat with neighbors who lived on a nearby houseboat on the river until three months ago.  Selling it because the property taxes got too high, they have now joined the RVing world in a camper and plan to travel north like us for a month and then head south for the winter.  We laughed and shared road stories and advice as they anxiously face the future reassuring them traveling and camping is an interesting and rewarding lifestyle.

We will stay one more night here having spent most of our time in the RV working.  Then it is on the road to Seattle.  But today we will take a break to go see Multnomah Falls.  According to Native American lore, Multnomah Falls was created to win the heart of a young princess who wanted a hidden place to bathe.  Jim has photographed this bridge in the past and seeing the framed photo has intrigued me with a desire to see them since I have known him.  Today I will see these Falls in person!  I will share that story with you later today.

Loomis CA to Phoenix OR

Today’s trip takes us from Loomis, CA to an end point in Phoenix, OR.  Another long day’s drive.  We are hoping for cooler weather, but our hopes are not to be.  We quickly reach the active Sacramento River that seems to be maintaining a normal water level.  Storm clouds off to our west may assist with that and hopefully they will continue easterly to the forest fires behind us.  The fields and hills on either side of Interstate-5 are golden blonde, strikingly framed by the dark gray of the sky.

 The highway is busy.  We start the climb from the valley and ultimately see the first glimpses of Mt. Shasta.  Eventually the road curves along and over the reservoir near Mt. Shasta and we are pleased to see the water level is higher on its reddish banks than when we last passed over it on the highway here in 2009.  Several boats with their occupants enjoying the water pass across the water below us.  Still though the reservoir has plenty of room to add more reserves of precious water if the predicted heavier winter rains cooperate.  The area here at the reservoir and stretching northerly toward our clearer views of Mt. Shasta has always been one of my favorite sections of this highway in northern California.

Here Castle Crags State Park’s mountain reminds us of the granite-composed mountains we viewed around Mt. Whitney as we glimpse its multiple peaks from the highway.  Mt. Shasta has little snow compared to other times we have passed it providing an interesting opportunity to see its rock formations.  A second mountain to the north of Mt. Shasta bears no snow at all. 

 We spy another realistic looking metal sculpture of a cow with her calf, maneuver through some road construction, cross the Siskiyou Summit and wind up the day in a little town called Phoenix, OR happily stopped in an RV park just off I-5.  It continues to be warmer (in the 80’s) than we expected, but the air conditioning in the coach is able to keep up with it and we kick back and rest after a second day of long driving.

Minden NV to Loomis CA

We leave Minden (just south of Carson City) this morning at 8 am.  The day starts off sunny, clear and already warm.  Heading north toward Carson City, the mountains on our left are greeting the morning sun and Minden is just getting started on its Saturday morning.  Once we leave the town portion of Minden, the broad valley on either side of us is speckled with cattle and their calves.  Aside from the winters, this attractive town is another place on earth I could happily spend my days.

Carson City is a short drive and we zigzag through town on US-395, passing under overpasses decorated with metal sculptures telling the story of Western life in silhouettes along the railings of the overpass.  There are larger sculptures of an eagle and then a cow with her calf as we pass by the Wal-Mart where I shopped the day before.  Carson City also seems like a desirable town with its clean streets and a multitude of shopping choices from big box stores to local businesses.

We are now en route to Reno.  The last time we were in Reno we traveled below the current version of US-395 in the valley.  Now the road is situated high up on the ridge with multiple lanes in either direction along what I would nickname a “sky-bridge” crossing the undulating hills of the ridge.  Crossing over the last ridge, Reno is splayed below us across its valley with a soft brown haze hovering over its high-rise buildings.  The smoke from forest fires to the west may have drifted here during the night.  Seeing the city for the first time since 2011 when we attended the Reno Air Races that culminated in an airplane accident killing eleven people while we sat in the stands watching in horror brought back memories of that terrible moment and how mere fate of where we sat had spared us.

In Reno we switch to Interstate 80 to travel westerly to Interstate 5 (our ultimate goal for traveling north to Seattle.)  Twisting, climbing and dropping along its route through continuous waves of hills that follow the Truckee River emanating from Lake Tahoe, we see no evidence of the forest fire exploding southwest of us causing evacuations we will learn of on the evening news.  We see exits leading back to Lake Tahoe’s northern shore, the soil gains a reddish tone along the way and then we traverse the infamous Donner Pass.  It is impossible not to reflect on the ill-fated party who traveled this route so many years ahead of us.  What would they think of us traveling the pass in mere minutes in an air conditioned, 40 foot long RV pulling a car?

Down the western slope of the mountains we encounter an area previously devastated by a forest fire four years ago and even further along we see more recent evidence of the same.  Lightening causes most of these fires.  In today’s dry conditions, every storm brings with it the fear of fire.  We reach our stop in Loomis, CA for the night in a nondescript RV park literally just off the Interstate.  This is the first of three long day drives to get to Portland where we will stop for four nights to do paperwork to complete our job. 

Lake Tahoe

We took the switchback road over the mountains to our west today to Lake Tahoe.  In the midst of summer, the town is alive with people.  We did not do much sightseeing preferring instead to get through the last four parks we had on our list to inspect.

Driving up, we both agreed we were glad we did not take the coach up on the highway to Lake Tahoe, but the views were phenomenal looking back across Nevada and the valley that holds Minden.  You have to wonder how they construct roads such as these up the side of the mountain, although we have climbed enough since April to know they have the process well in hand.

One of the more interesting parks we visited was Camp Richardson Historical Resort & Marina.  Here the resort is a mini-town in and of itself on the shores of the lake in Southern Lake Tahoe.  There are three places to tent camp with one of them also accommodating recreational vehicles.  The resort offers a General Store, Ice Cream Parlor, Restaurant, a "Trading Co." gift and souvenir store, Marina and a beachfront restaurant called the Beacon Bar and Grill to name a few that compliment campers and those staying at the Historic Hotel alike.  Did you know the lake is considered 99% pure and you could see a dinner plate 75 feet down through the water?  I would like to linger here longer the next time we are in Lake Tahoe.

There is a sense of relief knowing that we have done all of the physical inspections for our territory. Now we have to complete the paperwork.  But that will seem less hectic because we no longer have to spend our days driving to parks.  Jim is tired and it is good to have a bit of the pressure behind us.

We will stay in Minden until Saturday morning.  Then we drive to Sacramento to reach I-5 and head north toward Washington with a stay near Portland, OR along the way for a couple of days.  Now you will hear of personal adventures and places we see on the road.

The traveling life is good and I highly recommend it.  Seeing new horizons every few days is interesting and seeing the process of what we call the "U.S.A" as it lives, works and plays is inspiring. Turning off the news and seeing the wealth of what we have in this country renews the hope that all the positive will win out in the end.  I can only dream that enough of our kids will see it also that they too will have hope.  I wish I could take all of them and you on our journey!

Coleman CA to Minden NV

Today we traveled from Coleman, CA to Minden, NV to finish the last four park inspections at Lake Tahoe.  Minden is situated on US-395 and by staying in a park here, it is a nice alternative to taking the coach over the mountain range between this park and Lake Tahoe on a serpentine highway that climbs up and down large grades.

On the drive up we passed an area hard hit by forest fire and we worry about the huge fire burning in our beloved Washington.  With that as our destination over the upcoming week, we are hoping the firefighters will have luck with putting it out.  I hate to think of 400 square miles in Washington looking like this.

We also saw an interesting sight en route.  A cypress tree I believe died and whoever owns has let it stand near a barn.  From a distance, neither of us could tell what it was.  As we got closer, we understood what it was.  It is funny how your mind tries to make sense of the unknown.  We both had come up with alternatives that proved to be untrue when the mystery was solved.  I wonder if they put Christmas lights on it?

Minden has a historic downtown and twelve miles to the north is a large mall with all of the usual stores.  When we arrived after getting the coach settled in for the next four nights we drove around in historic Minden.  They have a farmer’s market on Tuesday nights next to a town square with a band stand gazebo and we saw the vendors setting up tables and preparing their displays of the usual fresh vegetables, some jewelry and yummy looking fresh bread.  We resisted because our encounter with them was before the official opening of 4 pm.

There are some quaint houses in historic Minden, one of which is called the A. F. Neidt House.  It has a plaque that dates the home’s construction back to 1909.  Originally A. F. Neidt, a cement contractor (who also poured most of the town’s concrete sidewalks during this time) built the house.  Later a woman named Annie Hickey Raycraft who rented out rooms to “unmarried lady” schoolteachers owned the home.

Many of the town’s buildings are built of brick.  There seems to be an effort to restore the interior of many of these buildings with lots of evidence of construction going on.  The surrounding neighborhood is inviting.  I could easily live in one of the homes along tree-lined streets with grassy front yards like ones I remember as a child.

We’ll stay here until Saturday morning.  Luckily there is WiFi although it is slow at times.  It feels good to be almost caught up again on telling our story.  Thanks for waiting for us to find a connection again!

Tim's American Flag Story

Every 4th of July, the owner of Coleman/Walker KOA climbs the cliff called Centennial Bluff behind his RV Park to replace the American Flag flying above it on the summit.  It is an all day hiking trip that begins at 5 am and his effort continues a tradition going back to 1876.

We stayed at their park and enjoyed meeting Tim and his wife Mary.  Also known as Meadowcliff, it is easy to see how the park was named as horses and cattle graze in the meadow at the base of the above cliff.  My iPhone does not do justice to capturing the flag, but it was an interesting story I wanted to share.

As we travel it is nice to see such beautiful places, experience the charm of each venue and meet interesting people.  People who are busy doing meaningful things with their lives; who are willing to share a moment of their time, a laugh or a story or maybe a common lesson learned.

Each in their own way contributes to the goodness this country represents.  For that I am grateful.    

Willow Springs RV Park

Bridgeport, CA is our next stay over for two days with four parks to see.  Willow Springs RV Park is another fine site to spend two nights (again set amidst trees-in this case white birch I believe but maybe silver aspen?)  Note:  I am going to have to make a study of trees so I can report their proper identification.  I'll add that to my study of cones (pine, fir or conifer) and get back to you soon!

A small stream flows past our park on the opposite side of the road and a trail behind our RV leads back up through a small canyon.  Picnic tables sit under the pine trees in front of us and a large fir pit for campers is situated nearby surrounded by benches for a communal venue.  They have eight motel rooms to rent also with the whole endeavor being handled by people our age and up-immaculate housekeeping is done by an 84 year old woman!  There are birdhouses on multiple trees (also made by an 87 year old annual camper) and hummingbird feeders are hung to draw in these tiny birds.  Flowers planted everywhere about the grounds add to the enticement for birds and humans alike.  The camaraderie and pride in their work is evident and welcoming.

Down the road we encounter the town of Bridgeport.  Here we see its reservoir which is barely holding its own against the drought. Two thirds of the exposed lakebed is now grass covered with herds of cattle free to graze where once there was water.   Two marinas on the east side of the lake with their respective RV parks are devoid of water.  Fishing is only still possible on the far opposite end of the lake away from town.  Now alternative activities like hiking, biking and riding ATVs are promoted.   The town's county courthouse is touted as a historical site so we stop to take photos of it.

Twelve miles away, driving to the south of town toward the mountains are two lakes called Twin Lakes.  Here water is abundant and fishing is fine.  The daily thunder storms we've experienced over the last few days again seem imminent in the gathering clouds as we drive up to see a resort at the very end of both lakes where the valley runs into the base of the mountains.  We find the marina is lively, campers abundant and the camp store massive and busy.  This is a destination resort with every amenity from gas and a cafe to sundries and a marina offered, keeping its clientele from having to make a twenty four mile round trip to Bridgeport.

We are home before the rainstorm comes and the sound of raindrops make a soothing music on the roof of our RV to accompany what is becoming a regular habit of taking a short afternoon nap.  We are nearing the end of our work and it is a mixed sense of stress to finish the job well along with a feeling of relief that soon the pressure of the work will be over.

 

Mono Vista RV Park

We have left the fir trees for what appear to be either Aspen or Silver Birch trees or both and grass.  Mono Vista RV Park is situated on a hill overlooking Mono Lake to the east and mountains to the north.  The thunderstorm that came through last night with heavy rain to the north of us (we only got some sprinkles) actually stopped the forest fire!  There is no smoke and everyone in the park is relieved no matter which direction they are traveling.

This park is delightful with great restrooms and lovely laundry facilities (why didn't I do my laundry there!)  The buildings are decorated with a variety of items and I wanted to share them with you:

Tools, skis and snowshoes, iron skillets and more attest to the activities of the area that included mining (for which the town was founded in 1852 by LeRoy Vining who died an untimely death thereafter by shooting himself accidentally in Nevada) along with limited farming due to the area's poor conditions for agriculture (earning it the nickname of "Poverty Flats") and tourism in both summer and winter related to Yosemite.  Fishing is also a popular sport here on the lake.

We were on bear watch again here as the owner warned against leaving anything in trashcans throughout the park overnight.  What they called a young and small "trash bear" coming down from Yosemite has been looking for snacks in their park.  I would have loved a photograph of him taken safely from the coach but as luck would have it, we did not see or hear him near ours.  I wonder how the multiple people sleeping in tents near us would have fared?

Mono Lake and Lee Vining, CA

We spent the night in Lee Vining, CA overlooking Mono Lake at the only RV park in town.  Just south of town is a road that leads west from US-395 over the mountains to Yosemite drawing traffic to this town from both the north and south to access this portal to the famous National Park.

The town is small with just a few stores.  The only two restaurant options are Mono Cone and a Chevron station deli.  Actually, it was the fanciest Chevron station I have ever seen.  Picnic tables, grass and trees are provided for people getting takeout. There is a large parking lot available for vehicles of all sizes.  Just up the hill from the station on the road going to Yosemite is a grand view of Mono Lake if you drive up half a mile and turn around to look back over the valley.  In the center of the lake is a residual volcanic island.

A large thunderstorm moved across the mountains to the north of us where they are battling a forest fire.  It is the first evidence we have seen of a fire in progress, though we have seen the aftereffects on several occasions driving up US-395.  The flashing traffic advisories tell us the highway remains open 35 miles ahead but we watch the smoke with some anxiety.  A series of strong thunderstorms are in the area and we can see lightening as we look to the clouds to the north of us.

Lee Vining has a Visitors Center for Mono Lake with great views across the water.  Driving down there a short distance from our park, we see a building that is literally upside down at the site of the Mono Basis Historical Society.  Apparently this construction was inspired by a children's story, "Upside Down Land" by a woman named Nellie Bly O'Bryan who lived from 1893 to 1984 in Mono County.  The Society rescued the structure after her death when it fell into disrepair to preserve it at the site of their museum in the town's old schoolhouse.  To read more about the house, click on this link to the Mono Basin Historical Society and you will also see other photos.

 

Mono Cone

Before we left Mammoth Lakes, our neighbor told us his daughter would drive three hundred miles for a "Mono Cone" in Lee Vining, CA on the edge of Mono Lake after he heard that was our destination today.  After settling into our RV space at Mono Vista RV Park, we were off to drive the length of the only street in town to find and test what would make a young woman drive three hundred miles.

We drove up, we drove down and finally all around the buildings on Main Street with no luck.  Alas, it was not meant to be.  And then we saw it!  Yes, the shop was on Main Street and we had passed it three times not recognizing the name in the script-like writing on the front of their building sort of hidden under the overhang.

We walked up to the window and ordered the large vanilla and chocolate swirl cone and gave it a go.  Yes, I am happy to report they are delicious.  Would I drive three hundred miles?  No.  Was it delicious?  Yes!  The portion was gigantic (not large.)  We sat there and devoured every savory slurp watching person after person follow us to the window.  And that was dinner.  I feel like a kid again and who says you can't have whatever you want for dinner?  Hence the saying, "Life is uncertain!  Eat dessert first!"

Last Evening in Mammoth Lakes

We took a short stroll around Mammoth Lakes RV Resort the night before we left.  Jim unfortunately lost his FitBit in the process we think, however it may show up yet in the RV if Snoopy is the culprit, using it as a toy!  We saw a funny sign on the back of someone's RV which I have to share with you, along with a welcome sign along the road in front of the park for Mammoth Lakes which sums up this area for me.  "Yes, John Muir, the mountains are indeed calling us along this route!"

The walk did not bother us (maybe we are adjusting to the altitude) but I rather doubt it as my blood pressure and heart rate attest each morning.  This is the highest elevation we have camped in during our entire trip.  The town itself reminds me a little of when I used to stay in Aspen with cultural conscious townspeople (the Jazz Festival) and a plethora of restaurants and sports stores.  There is a culture to the West that bespeaks health food, sports and the outdoors in this area.  And that too calls to me...